The GR52 — From Larche to Menton Balconies of the Mercantour and through the Vallée des Merveilles – Hiking the Grand Randonnée Five

Introduction and Choice of Alternatives

The Balconies of the Mercantour GR52 route in the northern Mercantour Park was originally conceived of to follow the alpine crest entirely in France, but was never completed, so in fact this route requires excursions into Italy. The entire route accessible to average hikers if snow is off the trail. The first half of the route takes place in wild, pristine high-mountain country unique in an Alpine Crossing to the Mediterranean. The second half visits beautiful vistas, but is more civilized. The GR52 has been rerouted to follow this route. From Boréon south, the GR52, as in previous years, continues through the Valley of Marvels to Menton.

I give the Balconies of the Mercantour route, which I strongly prefer to the GR5, extensive treatment below, because I don’t believe you will find this route described in detail anywhere else in English. The Balconies Route not only is starkly beautiful and scenically different from the rest of the Alpine Crossing, but it is a shorter by a day or even two to the Mediterranean compared to the old GR52 route, which cuts back to the GR52 from the GR5 in Valdeblore. You should be able to judge from the pictures on this page whether the Balconies route is for you.

The GR 5 guide book maps do not cover this area. You absolutely should purchase the IGN maps 3639 OT “Haute Tinée 1” and 3640 ET “Haute Tinée 2” (€12 each in 2016) or print out your own maps from screenshots at geoportail.gouv.fr (use a IGN Classic map from the Cartes/Fond des Cartes menu. zoom way in! — but these are less good).

The GR52 climbs 1,000 meters to the Pas de Cavale in 4 hours of walking and descends 300 meters to the Lacs d’Angel. There are 4 options after the Lacs d’Angel:

A) Directly to the Refuge de Vens — a partially no-trail route , but not requiring special skills. From the Col de Fer one is back on the GR52. This is the preferred route, with 500 meters of additional climb and 300 meters of additional descent.

B). Descending on the GR5 to Bousiéyas for a night, walking two kilometers down the road to le Pra at 1650 meters, and climbing to the Refuge de Vens at 2,466, or in a longer day going directly to the Refuge de Rabuons. This spreads the climbs over two days.

C) Via the GR52 through Italy to the Col de Fer and then the Refuge de Vens. This is always on trails, but requires a huge detour with an additional assent of 800 meters and an additional descent of 300 meters, which in one day will be too much for most hikers. I will not cover this further.

D)For easy goers, getting a ride to Ferriere, Italy, on the GR52, about 20 kilometers from Larche. By starting on the GR52 in Ferriere, one eliminates the climb to the Pas de Cavale. Therefore the total ascent is 800 meters and the total descent is 300 meters, making it the easiest option. I will not cover this further.

Details of Routes A and B:

Important: Ask at the Gîte de Larche about snow conditions on the Pas de Cavale (2671 meters, 8763 feet). If they tell you it is blocked with snow, as it may be into late-July (as was the case on my second visit), the same “Salse Moraine Valley” shown in the photo below and the GR5 there may be joined by a somewhat lower trail via the Col de Pouriac (2506 m, 8221 ft). The trailhead is in Italy, four kilometers southeast of the GR5 on the main highway from Larche. Figure that this detour will add an hour and one-half to your walking time, more if you have to contend with snow banks. If you are an easy going walker, offer to pay the gite owner or a hotel employee to transport you to the Italian trailhead by car, saving 3 hours.

II highly recommend that you depart before 8am to be off the high and exposed passes before mid-afternoon. In general, from Larche to the Mediterranean, it is wise to set off at 6 or 7 in the morning, to do your climbing before the sun is overhead.

You leave Larche by the highway and quickly branch onto a minor road, which, after an hour, curves southwards and enters the Mercantour National Park. Now on a trail, the GR5 climbs 1,000 meters to the Pas de la Cavale at 2,671 meters (8,763 feet) in a total of 4 1/2 hours (not including rest stops). Looking ahead from the pass of the Pas de la Cavale, the scenery resembles a moonscape.

From the Pas de Cavale

Notice the Lac d’Angel on left below. The trail to Bouziéyas runs from there along dried river towards the right.

The following photo is to the left of the one above, facing south-southeast, with a wider angle view. This is where you will be going if you are taking the A – Partially No Trail Route. You will be climbing along the black and green ridges running from the right to the center of photo; then, turning right, it passes out of view, before the mountains in distance. The green carpet is not trees or shrubery. The dot marks your intermediate destination. A trail starts further up.

Descend on the GR5 to the lakes d’Angel in the Salse Moraine Valley at 2,343 meters Looking back now at the Pas de Cavalle pass, you will wonder how you ever came down the cliff.

Looking back at the Pas de Cavale from Lac d’Angel.

Continuation Option A: Directions from the Lacs d’Angel to the Refuge du Vens

For those not used to walking off trail, this route may be scary. Both times I walked the route, my companions felt completely lost because they could not see from below where we were going. These days, those using GPS may have a better sense of security. The very qualities that makes this route scary to some makes it one of my favorite routes. However, I do not recommend undertaking the route alone, because, in the unlikely event of an accident, you are not likely to meet anyone else on the way (and that is especially true in June or September).

Needless to say, don’t attempt this route if there is the least sign of thunderstorms, or if thre is fog on the peaks; the “Col de Fer” on this route means “pass of iron”, and this pass is known to attract lightning hits. Also don’t attemmpt this route if your physical stamina is low.

Allow 4 walking hours from the Pas de Cavalle to the Refuge de Vens. This comes to about an 8 1/2 hours of walking from Larche (not including rest stops).

Stay left of the lakes. Descend to about 2200 meters (Appx. GPS: 44º20’51.13”N6º53’41.03E), crossing the dry river. At the bottom by the rounded ridges, bear left. Begin climbing .Once you have passed by the top edge of the rounded ridge that will have blocked your view to the right, a series of little lakes, perhaps dry, becomes visible, and you will keep these on your right as you continue to climb, passing the uppermost little lake, and entering a sort of a mini-valley that has a trail in it, running off slightly to the right to the Pas de Morgon (appx GPS 44º20’00.15”N 6º55’34.11″ ). You are almost at the same elevation as the Pas de Cavalle.

Looking back during the climb. Little lakes are below towards left. Pas de Cavale, from which you came, located just left of middle of photo. The Italian pass, somewhat lower, is visible to the right of it. A faint trail now exists.

Soon the trail is on a ridge, slightly exposed on both sides, following cairns. At the end of the ridge, where in poor visibility you can feel lost, the trail turns sharply right by about 135 degrees, angling backwards down the slope, and at the bottom turn sharply left again on a faint trail that soon meets another, better and waymarked trail that comes up from the right and soon another, the GR52, from the left at the Col du Fer, 2,684 meters, 8,674 feet (44º1936.14”N, 6º56’84.58’E’). Continue to the Collet Tortisse , 2591m (44º19’22,72”N,6º56’12.66”E). Now descend to the Refuge de Vens, at 2,366 meters, 7,762 feet, on a lake of the same name. This is one of the wildest corners of France.

View from the trail of the Refuge and lake of Vens.

Continuation Option B:

Descend on the GR5 to the gîte d’étape at Bousiéyas and spend the night there. On the following day walk down hilll on the highway for 2 kilometers to le Pra.Then. past the parking, take the trail (marker 32) which leads up to the Refuge de Vens (2,426 m) in four hours. If you come to Vens via this route through Bousieyas, it adds a day to your trip. But you could choose to skip Vens and walk directly to the Rabuons refuge, in which case you do not lose a day (total walking time from Bousieyas to the Rabuons refuge is at least 8 hours). See the following maps. (If going to the Refuge du Rabuons, note the shortcut , from (23) to (22) (a descent of 100 meters) and then a 50 meter ascent and descent to (27) (on the map for day 2).

From Pra to Vens or Rabuons Map 1

From Pra to Vens – Rabuons Map 2

Day 2: Continuing from the Refuge de Vens to the Refuge de Rabuons on the Balcons du Mercantour route.

(Note: If you wish to return to Nice or regain the GR5 you can do so by descending from the Refuge de Vens to Saint-Etienne-du-Tinée. To do so, following trail signs, climb 300 meters (1,000 feet) and descend 1300 meters (4,000 feet) in about 4 1/2 hours).

The map below, up to date at this writing (2023) shows the route from the Refuge de Vens (25) to the Refuge du Rabuons (105). The trail from Pra shown as a faint dashed line) joins(34) to (23).

From the Refuge du Vens (signpost #25), the trail passes along the north side of the Vens lakes. Make a brief detour to see the view where a stream exits to the lip of the plateau. Then, after passing another lake, climb over a pass. After the pass bear left and climb slightly onto the Chemin de l’Energie—a true road (but with no way to drive to it) built between the World Wars to permit construction of a hydroelectric plant (that never materialized). About 5 kilometers long and practically level, the Chemin continuously has excellent views of the Tinée valley until, near the end, it passes through two tunnels. (An extra climb and descent is necessary to detour via the Plan de Tinebre, as shown on the map, if the repairs to the tunnels have not been completed.) Climb again briefly to the Refuge de Rabuons (tel.04 93 23 04 11) at 2,510 meters, located beside a lake and sourrounded on three sides by foreboding mountains of black rocks. The Rabuons refuge is isolated, basic and small, but has a wonderful ambiance, a solar shower, and cheerful service. (See the refuge on its “rock” by enlarging the second photo below.) Walking time from the Refuge de Vens is 4 hours.

There is a high route from Vens over Mount Tinebre to Rabuons for mountaineers —quite exposed and difficult, that usually requires crampons and ice ax. Check with the staff at the Refuge de Vens if you are a mountaineer.

Tunnels on the “Energy Road”, seen from the trail to the valley.

Days 3 and 4: Continuation of the Balcons du Mercantour Route to Refuge Laus and Sant’ Anna, in Italy, or possibly continue further to Isola 2000

From the Rabuons refuge (2,523 meters), if you should wish to rejoing the GR5, you can descend to St.-Étienne-de-Tinnée (1,300 meters – 4,000 feet) in under 4 hours.

Day 3 – Along the GR52:

In the summer of 2009 I used the newly created trail now visible on http://.geoportail.gouv.fr (click the list of “donées” to add the IGN classic map) and on the recent IGN paper map of the area. It runs southeast along the French side of the crest. I can recommend this trail for average walkers provided all the snow is off the trail. Ask at the Rabuons refuge if the trail is clear (in a normal year by mid-July), making very clear to them your level of skill. (The guardian, being a mountaineer, as in most refuges, is likely to assume that it is easy to go around snowfields by climbing up and down the rocks, or to hack out steps to cross them.) If the trail is not passable, descend to St. Etienne-de-Tinée for the night, and either follow the GR 5 and the old Gr52 route to Boréon, or take buses or a taxi to Isola 2000 and pick up the GR52 trail to Boreon there, saving a day or two.

Refuge (on left) and Lac du Rabuons looking back from the trail .

View from the new trail towards Auron village across the valley, where the GR5 passes, 1000 meters (3,300 feet) below this level . The GR5 is visible center-left.

The new trail is wide, about one-half the width of a road lane. From Rabuons it climbs to the south, crosses a col, and contours around a bowl (see two photos immediately below), all over slabs of rock and stones.

The rock-filled bowl below. Trail climbs on right.

The bowl:

Walking from Rabuons to Sant

This portion is slow going, taking about 2 hours, as you much watch your step .

Leaving the bowl, the trail is in normal grass and you can double or triple your speed. Another hour brings you to a signposted cross trail . If bad weather has suddenly rolled in, you can descend to Douans in the valley (1100 meters below). Otherwise, turn left and climb to the Pas de Colle Longue at the Italian border.

The gardian of the Rabuons refuge warned me not to take any of the other trails to Italy indicated by dashed lines on some maps (but not easily visible from the new route), because they have not been maintained and are quite dangerous.

Delightful Climb to the Pas de Colle Longue

The climb from the above-mentioned trail junction takes a good hour, mostly through beautiful rolling meadows full of sheep. Only one short portion of the trail is somewhat exposed, so that you must watch your step. At the col one sees the remains of military fortifications and barbed wire. You spot the Lake (not the village) of St. Bernalfo, near the refuge, 650 meters below, about an hour and one-half by the sinuous closed-off road and/or the partial trail. I saw three chamoix in this valley. The refuge is five minutes to the left of the lake, just over the crest of a hill on the road (Tel Italy (39) 0171-959-606). The refuge is open continuously during July and August and to the middle of September, and on weekends from May to October. When the refuge is closed, it may be possible to use a mattress in the winter bivouac room, if you are carrying your own food. And they may open if there is a reservation for several persons. Outside of July and August, I highly suggest calling for details, and in season, for reservations: +39 349 748178 or the manager at +39 338 872 7984. Figure about 6 hours in all from Rabuons. Via this routing, you will definitely want to spend the night at the Refuge Alexandris Foches at Laus, but if it is closed, you will have to walk a 10 hour day to San’t Anna.

Refuge Alexandris Foches at Laus

Mid-week in July, I had a room with four bunk beds for myself, and never met anyone in the bathroom. The meal consisted of four courses: pasta; meat; cheese; fruit. Most Italians vacation in August.

Day 4: From Refuge Laus to Sant’ Anna:

It is possible to combine this day with the next one to make one long day of 7 or 8 hours from Laus to Isola 2000.

Santuario Sant’ Anna di Vinadio (tel. Italy (39)0171-959-125 https://www.santuariosantanna.eu/en/), your destination, is a sanctuary for travelers, a place of worship, and a famous pilgrimage destination in Italy. The sanctuary was founded hundreds of years ago to serve travelers and thus also runs what amounts to a hotel and also refuge. It was nice for a change to have sheets, large towels and my own bathroom, and to enjoy watching the mixture of pilgrims and tourists. The menu at Santa Anna was similar to the night before, three courses – typically pasta followed by meat and vegetables, followed by dessert. Santa Anna has a separate snack bar open at lunch with sandwiches, pies and drinks. The beautiful church there is poised on a rock slab, and its floor slants up to the altar.

Details on the two ways of going from Laus to Sant’ Anna:

A) The GR52 route for regular walkers from the Laus refuge to Santa Anna

The last few minutes to Santa Anna are on a tarred road.

This route involves going down to Callieri, (a descent of about 450 meters). From Callieri the trail leads directly to Santa Anna via the Tesina Pass (a climb of 1,000 meters and a 400 meter descent). This 4 hour routing though unexciting, is pretty, easy and safe.

If you are are combining this day with the next one, you will save almost an hour by not descending all the way to Sant’ Anna.

B) For the intrepid, he exciting, risky, crest route near the French-Italian border: In 2009 I took the crest route from Laus, which involved climbing up to the Paso del Bue (Pas du Boeuf) (Beef Pass) (a climb of 700 meters from Laus). Average walkers: avoid this route; you must be sure-footed, very careful, and willing to undergo exposure to heights. Be sure to check with the gardian of the Refuge Laus if this trail is still safe.

The trail to the pass was badly maintained in several places, and required walking several hundred meters (yards) in footsteps on a steeply sideways-slanted hillside. In other words, it was a bit dangerous and absolutely required fabulous balance or trekking poles! The Paso del Bue is narrow and quite exposed (see photobelow).

Looking back (down) from the Passo del Bue (Pas de Boeuf) (a military building on a snow patch is visable as well as the trail over the snow)

Passo del Bue

After the pass, the trail continues over slabs of rock and stones for about 1 mile before reaching dirt. In the photo above, the trail runs about one-third of the way down the slope just beneath the cliffs, and turns right into a gap in the ridge. Some maps show a trail along the very crest between France and Italy, but the Laus guardian told me that this was very dangerous. The correct trail shown in the photo is now on the Geoportail site and on recent IGN maps.

At a branch in the trail in view of a stone military building, a direct trail to the left leads towards the pass, but it looked eroded and dangerous; I chose to go to the right, scrambling up an eroded slope to a better trail that went in front of the military structure. From there, after a flat stretch, it takes some scrambling up steep somewhat slippery slope on an eroded but safe-enough trail to the Paso Saboulé. From the pass, you can choose between two very good trails is to Santa Anna. The shorter route, by perhaps one-half hour goes left to the Passo Tesina. The longer route crosses into France, passes by some nice alpine lakes before crossing back into Italy on a road carved steeply into the mountainside (here I saw two bouquetin), and descends by a closed-off unpaved military road from WWII to Santa Anna. Total walking time is about 6 hours. The mountaining route described above, while exciting, should only be taken by those equipped with trekking poles, and who are wiling to undergo a degree of risk, exposure, and difficulty. It should definately not be attempted by the average trail walker.

Day 5: From Santa Anna to Isola 2000 (or Boréon

An steep but safe trail leads from Santa Anna up to the ridge line in one hour, and then in another hour to the Col de Lombarde, above Isola 2000. If the weather is inclement, or if you wish shade, you can walk up the military road in the valley in even less total time. To get there I descend from Santa Anna on a trail to a track that eventually joined the main road, and then I bypassed the road switchbacks to reach the Col de Lombarde pass. The descent to the ski village can be accomplished in less than an hour by the ski slopes or perhaps in an hour by a marked trail that winds over scree before descending. Total time is under 3 hours.

Isola 2000. Straight ahead is the Col Mercière, your continuation

As the name indicates, Isola 2000 is at an altitude of 2000 meters. This ski village, like Auron on the GR5, has a number of unattractive buildings that may offend many hikers who prefer unfrequented, pristine areas, but it can be bypassed only by saying in Italian refuges and climbing high passes that add a day or more of walking to the GR52. There are only two hotels in Isola 2000: the Hotel Druos ** in summer almost always has last-minute nice rooms without board at a reasonable price; the Pas de Loup***, less available, includes all meals. There is no gite d’étape or refuge. The restaurants, such as the popular La Marmotte or La Raclette, specialize in alpine cuisine, but also serve traditional French cafe dishes. The hotels in Isola 2000 are connected together side by side, and under them can be found a continuing passageway – shopping mall. Walk through the mall and you will come upon the market, shops and restaurants Most stores will be closed on Sunday and from 12:30 to 3:00. There is bus service to Nice.

Many walkers who have stayed in Sant’ Anna may prefer to continue directly to Boréon in one fairly easy day of 7 hours. By taking the trail to the left from the road after the ski lift crossing and branching off left at trail marker 91 you can save 100 meters of descent, bypassing Isola 2000.

Day 6: From Isola 2000 to Le Boreon on the GR52

For those who wish to spend a week on the GR52, a Lignes d’Azur bus on line 750 leaves at 7:20 AM (2023) from the bus station in Nice and arrives at Isola 2000 at 9:35AM. A pleasant walk will put you in Boréon by mid day. It is also possible to reach Saint-Martin-Vesubie, a one-hour walk from Boréon (and sometimes shuttles in summer), by bus on Lignes d’Azur #90 from Nice, departing at 8:0 or 9:00 *2023), to St. Martin-Vesubie,arriving at 10 or 11 AM, and then transfering to a shuttle (navette) to Boræeon, or take a taxi to Borón or to Madonna de Fenestre.

It takes just over an hour from the Isola 2000 village to climb to the Col de Mercière at 2,343 meters. From there in summer you can descend through the fields, cutting off the curves of the sinuous dirt road that forms the official trail, until you reach the lovely pine, larch and fir forest.

You walk easily through this enjoyable forest on a dirt road closed to traffic, first descending, then almost keeping level, for 1 1/2 or 2 hours until the Col de Salesé (2031). Just before the col you meet and join the trail that used to be the GR52. You are now off the Haute Tinée 2 map and on the Vesubie map, but on the GR52 map if you are using a French Topoguide. In any case, the route is signposted and waymarked. From the col you descend on a highly trampled trail to the Parking area in 1 hour, and then by the tarred road to Boreon (1526 m) in another 1/2 hour. Total time is 5 to 5 1/2 hours.

Days 7 – 11 from Boreon to Menton:

From Boreon to the Vallée des Merveilles on the GR52

From Boréon the lodgings are spaced as follows: Madone de Fenestre (guarded CAI refuge) 4 hours (an extra 1 1/2 hours by the Col de Fenestre variation); from Madone de Fenestre to the Refuge “Nice” 3 1/4 hours; from the Refuge “Nice” to the Refuge des Merveilles, 4 1/2 hours. These refuges may all be reserved here: Réservation, Refuge des Merveilles. The refuges stay open until the end of September, except the Nice refuge closes in mid-september.

It is your choice whether to take 2 days (as my group did) or 3 days, from Boréon to reach the Refuge des Mervilles. Consider combining the first two days into one, not staying in Madonne de Fenestre (but definitely visiting the church), and rather pushing on to the Refuge Nice, or after mid-September staying at Madonne de Fenestra and walking in one day to the Refuge des Merveilles. Definitely do get a very early start each day, because this country is very hot and exposed at midday (and cold at night). Carry extra water.

Lac du Basto, Valley of Marvels on the GR52

If you are interested in seeing many of the engravings in the Vallée des Merveilles, I suggest planning for this in advance by arranging for a guide with the Refuge des Merveilles. Much of the famous prehistoric rock art in the Vallée Des Merveilles has been defaced or washed away, and what is remaining is hard to find without a guide. None the less, without a guide, the valley is exciting.

How to handle the 2,050 meter (6,700 foot) descent from the Pas de Diable (elevation 2,346 meters), after the Vallée Des Merveilles to Sospel (elevation 350 meters)

An escape route from the GR52, which my easygoing friends took, leads eastwards from the Refuge des Mervilles: A two-hour downhill walk leads to the train station at St. Dalmas-de-Tende. From there trains run to Sospel (and to Nice). If you bypass the GR52 descent, do by all means stay overnight in Sospel and walk the final day to the Mediterranean at Menton.

The GR52 has been rerouted since I first walked it. In now visits the very nice Gite d’Etap – Refuge called L’Estive and the Hotel Le Yéti at the Baise de Camp d’Argent (1737 meters, about 5,600 feet of altitude). http://www.estive-mercantour.fr/Contact-Estive.html. You can see the new routing on the map of the Geoportail web site at the”town” level of magnification. If you take the new routing of the GR 52, it will add at least 1 3/4 hours to your walking time, and you will need to spend the night there; so use the old routing via signposts 150 and 151 if you plan to descend all the way to Sospel in one day.

Sunrise, Hiker and Lake de la Muta, near the Pas de Diable.

Start at the crack of dawn, so you won’t spend too much time in the heat. You will be walking roughly 35 kilometers (21 miles) over 8 1/2 hours if you choose to make the entire descent in one day. Carry extra water, whichever routing you take. This descent is a ridge walk, and there are no drinking water sources.

Watch your walking technique: Don’t bang your legs down, and don’t keep your knees straight. Use your quadriceps to cushion your steps. Tread as lightly as you can. (My hiking companion—who was stronger than I —ran down many slopes jumping from rock to rock. As a result, he couldn’t walk the next day, and very sadly, his knees were never as good afterwards). By all means, use shock-absorbent innersoles, and use trekking poles to help cushion your steps.

Pas du Diable (Pass of the Devil).

The Mediterranean is somewhare out there in the distance.

An hour and 1/4 from the Refuge Des Mervilles lies the Pas du Diable (Pass of the Devil) at 2,346 meters (about 7,700 feet). Sospel, your destination, is at 350 meters. (1,100 feet)!!!

At the Pointe des Trois Communes, which is where you arrive at a concrete wall with a hole in it, you must make a choice. The GR52 was rerouted in about 2009 to pass through the Camp d’Argent, adding about 1 hour and 45 minutes of walking time. The sign at the Pointe des Trois Communes (#410) is on the back side of the sign post, and it is easy to miss. If your knees bother you, or 8 1/2 hours to Sospel (as always, not counting stops) would be too much walking, turn west, staying on the GR 52 and spending the night at the gite-refuge L’Estive or the hotel Le Yéti at the Camp d’Argent. In 2012 I walked both the old and new GR52 sections, and in my opinion, the old routing is more scenic. Either way you go, unfortunately, you have a section on na asphalted road that was built in recent years. My timing from the Pointe des Trois Communes to the Camp d’Argent is 45 minutes (or less). The sign’s time for this section is wrong. My timing from the Camp d’Argent back to the old GR52 at signpost #151 is 1 hour 30 minutes.

Otherwise, walk directly from the Pointe de Trois Communes to the Baisse de la Dea (via signposts #150 and #151) on the old routing of the GR52 in about one-half hour. To do so turn east, and then immediately go right and left. Once you reach the ashphalt, I recommend you stay on it (rather than going into the valley and climbing up again) until it reaches a switchback, where you continue on a dirt road. Do go up to the left of the ashphalted road to look at the great view and wander about the ruins from the 2nd World War (going inside is not safe).

Dirt! Grass! Mediterranean Flora!

However you do it, it is a memorable descent, never boring. The flora changes as you drop in altitude and approach the Mediterranean.

Sospel is a very interesting, picturesque village astride the Bevera River. There are hotels and a gîte d’étape.

The Final Day of the GR52: The fantastic Decent to the Mediterranean

The main point about this day is: Don’t miss it. From the river in Sospel there is a 740 meter (2,400 feet) climb to a pass at 3,300 feet, a descent of 700 feet, and another 1,000 foot climb back to 3,600 feet. This takes 4 1/2 hours not counting stops. This last pass lies only 3 1/2 miles from the Mediterranean coast. As you descend, a mile from the water you are still at 600 meters (2,000 feet)!

Approaching Menton

As the ground falls away, the views are never to be forgotten. You can see up the coast to Cap-Martin, Monte-Carlo and beyond, as well as down to Menton and the turquoise blue Mediterranean.

Know in advance that your descent will not be easy; initially it is very steep and strewn with rocks for the first 300 meters vertical of the descent.

It takes 2 1/2 to 3 memorable hours—excluding multiple photo stops— to walk from the pass down to the Mediterranean. About one-half way down, make a slight detour up to the ridge on your left where you can see into Italy.

Once in Menton, among pennants and flags, walk onto the beach, and dip your toes in the Mediterranean. You have earned it! Spend an extra couple of days on the Côte d’Azur!

Menton is worth a stay, as well as the areas between Menton and Nice, including Monaco. Nice is full of tourist sites and fine museums. You will need to reach the Nice train station or airport to return home. Road traffic during the summer months is extremely slow, and local trains to the Nice train station and airport are often packed, so it’s best to plan ahead.

You can walk this section from the Rabuon refuge: (A) on walking trails or (B) on mountaineering trails.

On day 3, Mountaineering (A): If (big if) the snow is off the Corborant pass (3007 m – 9,900 ft), AND you are willing to use your hands a bit, AND if you are willing to descend a scree slope… AND if you are willing to climb 500 meters (1,500 feet), descend 1,400 meters ( 4,600 feet), and climb again 300 meters (1,000 feet) you can take the Corborant pass to the Alexandris Foches (Laus) Refuge in about 5 or so hours not counting stops. Otherwise there is a lower level route with no scrambling that takes 6 hours.

On Day 4(A): There is the exciting crest route that involves walking on a slanted hillside where a slip would be very bad and the crossing of a narrow, exposed pass with a 300 meter drop.

Otherwise, On day 3 (B): You can take the recently opened (fall 2008) route, lower in altitude (highest point about 2650 m), but longer in distance and time, trail to the Laus refuge. It involves an assent of approximately 130 meters (400 feet), a descent of 500 meters (1,600 feet), another assent of 400 meters (1,300 feet), and another descent of 650 meters (2,100 feet). This would take 6 or so walking hours.

On day 4: You can walk the easy low route to the Sant’ Anna Sanctuary in 4 hours and perhaps even continue to Isola 2000.

Details on Day 3 Option A

Refuge (on left) and Lac du Rabuons looking back from new trail .

In the summer of 2009 I used the newly created trail now visible on tab.geoportail.gouv.fr (click the list of “donées” to add the IGN maps) and on the recent IGN paper map of the area. It runs southeast along the French side of the crest. I can recommend this trail for average walkers provided all the snow is off the trail. Ask at the Rabuons refuge if the trail is clear (in a normal year by mid-July), making very clear to them your level of skill. (The guardian, being a mountaineer, as in most refuges, is likely to assume that it is easy to go around snowfields by climbing up and down the rocks, or to hack out steps to cross them.) If there is snow on the trail, descend to St. Etienne-de-Tinée, and either follow the GR 5 or if you are not a “purist”, take a bus or a taxi to Isola 2000 and pick up the Boreon trail there, saving a day or two.

The bowl on the new trail

Walking from Rabuons to Sant

View from the new trail towards Auron village across the valley, where the GR5 passes, 1000 meters (3,300 feet) below this level . The GR5 is visible center-left.

The rock-filled bowl below. Trail climbs on right.

This portion is slow going, taking about 2 hours, as you much watch your step .

Leaving the bowl, the trail is in normal grass and you can double or triple your speed. Another hour bring you to a signposted cross trail . If bad weather has suddenly rolled in, you can descend to Douans in the valley (1100 meters below). Otherwise, turn left and climb to the Pas de Colle Longue at the Italian border.

Climb to the Pas de Colle Longue

The climb from the above-mentioned trail junction takes a good hour, mostly through beautiful rolling meadows full of sheep. There is only one short somewhat exposed portion of the trail where you must watch your step. At the col one sees the remains of military fortifications and barbed wire. You spot the Lake (not the village) of St. Bernalfo, near the refuge, 650 meters below, about an hour and one-half by the sinuous closed-off road and/or the partial trail. I saw three chamoix in this valley. The refuge is five minutes to the left of the lake, just over the crest of a hill on the road (Tel Italy (39) 0171-959-606). The refuge is open continuously during July and August and on weekends from May to October. When the refuge is closed, it may be possible to use a matress in the winter bivouac room, if you are carrying your own food. Call for details.Figure about 6 hours in all from Rabuons. Via this routing, you will definitely want to spend the night at the Refuge Alexandris Foches at Laus.

Refuge Alexandris Foches at Laus

Since it was mid-week in July, I had a room with four bunk beds for myself, and never met anyone in the bathrooom. The meal consisted of four courses: pasta; meat; cheese; fruit.

Day 4: From Refuge Laus to Sant Anna:

It is possible to combine this day with the next one to make one long day of 7 or 8 hours from Laus to Isola 2000.

Details on the two ways of going from Laus to Sant’ Anna:

A) The exciting, risky, crest route near the French-Italian border: In 2009 I took the crest route from Laus, which involved climbing up to the Paso del Bue (Pas du Boeuf) (Beef Pass) (a climb of 700 meters from Laus). Average walkers: avoid this route; you must be sure-footed, very careful, and willing to undergo exposure to heights.

Looking back (down) from the Passo del Bue (Pas de Boeuf) (a military building on a snow patch is visable as well as the trail over the snow)

Passo del Bue

B) The route for regular walkers from the Laus refuge to Santa Anna

The last few minutes to Santa Anna are on a tarred road.

If you are are combining this day with the next one, you will save almost an hour by not descending all the way to Sant’ Anna.

Day 5: From Santa Anna to Isola 2000 (or Boréon

An steep but safe trail leads from Santa Anna up to the ridge line in one hour, and then in another hour to the Col de Lombarde, above Isola 2000. If the weather is inclement, or if you wish shade, you can walk up the military road in the valley in even less total time. I descend from Santa Anna on a trail to a track that eventually joins the main road, and then bypass the road switchbacks to reach the pass. The descent to the ski village can be accomplished in less than an hour by the ski slopes or perhaps in an hour by a marked trail that winds over scree before descending. Total time is under 3 hours.

Isola 2000. Straight ahead is the Col Mercière, your continuation

As the name indicates, Isola 2000 is at an altitude of 2000 meters. This ski village, like Auron on the GR5, has a number of unattractive buildings that may offend many hikers who prefer infrenquented pristine areas, but it can be bypassed only by saying in Italian refuges and climbing high passes that add a day of walking to the GR52. There are only two hotels in Isola 2000: the Hotel Druos ** in summer almost always has last-minute nice rooms without board at a reasonable price; the Pas de Loup***, less available, includes all meals. There is no gite d’étape or refuge. The restaurants, such as the popular La Marmotte or La Raclette, specialize in alpine cuisine, but also serve traditional French cafe dishes. The hotels in Isola 2000 are connected together side by side, and under them can be found a continuing passageway – shopping mall. Walk through the mall and you will come upon the market, shops and restaurants Most stores will be closed on Sunday and from 12:30 to 3:00. There is bus service to Nice.

Day 6: From Isola 2000 to Le Boreon on the GR52 or St. Dalmas-Valdeblore on the GR5

For those who wish to spend a week on the GR52, a Lignes d’Azur bus on line 750 leaves at 9:00 AM (2018) from the bus station in Nice and arrives at Isola 2000 at 11:30 AM. A pleasant walk will put you in Boréon by late afternoon. It is also possible to reach Boréon directly by bus on Lignes d’Azur #730 from Nice, departing at 8:15 or 9:15, to St. Martin-Vesubie,arriving at 10 or 11 AM, and then transfering to a shuttle (navette) to Boræeon, or take a taxi to Borón or to Madonna de Fenestre.

You walk easily through this enjoyable forest on a dirt road closed to traffic, first descending, then almost keeping level, for 1 1/2 or 2 hours until the Col de Salesé (2031). Just before the col you meet and join the GR52. You are now off the Haute Tinée 2 map and on the Vesubie map, but on the GR52 map if you are using a French Topoguide. In any case, the route is signposted and waymarked. From the col you descend on a highly trampled trail to the Parking area in 1 hour, and then by the tarred road to Boreon (1526 m) in another 1/2 hour. Total time is 5 to 5 1/2 hours.

A wolf sanctuary in Le Boreon—containing about 20 wolves—may be toured in a couple of hours. Le Boreon has a pleasant lake, much visited by tourists for the day, and a restaurant serving trout you are supposed to catch yourself (but they bend the rules). There is at least one hotel and also in a Gite d’étape, as well as bus service to Nice. As you are now on the GR52, covered in detail in a topoguide, so my detailed trail description ends with Boreon.

Should you wish to rejoin the GR5 rather than walk the GR52 (see my discussion of the choice between the two on the next page), just before the Col de Salesé (after about 3.5 hours of easy walking from Isola 2000) you must take the GR52 in the opposite direction . The topoguide walking time from this point to St. Dalmas-Valdeblore is about 4h50m, or about 8.5 hours from Isola 2000. There is no intermediate lodging point, unless you bivouac near small lakes 20 minutes below the Pas de Barn. (If you are willing to walk to St. Dalmas-Valdeblore by an alternative to the GR52, it appears from maps that you could save at least an hour and perhaps two by going via the abandoned hamlet of Mollières.)

Summary

The Balcons du Mercantour trails described above are worthy of your strong consideration. They provide the stark beauty of a truly high level route; the excitment of some more difficult trails—if you choose them; the novelty of an excursion into Italy; and a savings of one or two days walking time if you are continuing on the GR52.